After 3 years of no championship in lead for me, there come time for it again... I was looking forward for this event in Gijon for quite a while and were very happy, how it has turned out for me.
All through the comp I climbed well, completing both qualification routes, and fell just under the top in semifinal. Fortunately, I repeated good climbing also in final.
For me, it is a first lead medal from World Championships and after not really briliant season till now, it truly means a lot to me. What suprised me a bit is, that I thought I would need to fight on route for silver harder, as I did. it turned out, I climbed quite easily until I fell at a point where I took the wrong foot position which made a harder crux move.
This was my first lead medal in the World Championships and after a not very brilliant season till now, it truly meant a lot to me. What surprised me a bit is that I thought I would need to fight harder on the route for silver. As it turned out, I climbed quite easily until I fell at a point where I took the wrong foot position which made a harder crux move.
It was also nice to take 3rd place in the combination overall ranking. All congratulations also to new world champions Adam Ondra and JaIn Kim, who climbed perfectly to the top and took well deserved golds!
After few days of climbing in Innsbruck I continued on my way to the legendary Rockmaster in Arco.
This comp has a special meaning among all comps and masters I have ever done. For me, remembering last year's event is something that brings me special memories and strong emotions. Receiving the La Sportiva competition award for best comp climber of the year, followed by winning the master itself next day... Truly unforgettable... So, this year, well, let's say I have been looking forward for a long time to this event.
In the comp itself, I took 2nd place in lead and 3rd place in 'duel' lead-speed event. I regretted a bit that my performance in semifinal 'on-sight' route was quite bad, as my climbing was too full of unnecessary doubts and lack of self-trust. The lower height from the previous round (unfortunately I finished 2nd due to the countback) cost me another title on this magnificent master.
On the way back from the championship in Munich I decided to make a stop at Innsbruck. I had (probably) already everything I needed with me, so why not? :)
Unfortunately I had to stay there alone, because my visit was really unplanned and spontaneous, but Innsbruck is great place to stay anyway . Being surrounded by lots of climbers and nice routes in Tivoli is a guarantee that you will never get bored! :)
My climbing partner in Innsbruck was Alex Khazanov, a young and really strong Israel climber. Even though he is a bouldering specialist, he was psyched to do a route or two every day too! (and he looked really solid and strong) Thank you for the company! ;)
I really enjoyed that three day stop on the way to Arco and I 'm now feeling refreshed and motivated for everything coming up!
This year main bouldering event of the year took a place at very nice Olympiapark in Munich. I have already nice memmories from competing there, the best one definetly from winning bouldering WC stage in 2011.
This year, I admit I didn't get there with goals high like this. I wanted just to enjoy boulders and climb well. Nothing else.
After qualifications it didn't looked soo good. I had climbed quite bad and barely managed to do it trought the qualification round. Elimination was anyway crucial, from 77 to best 20, so every little detail was important.
Next day in semifinal round, I did better. With finishing 2 boulders (3attempts) I just missed finals for 1 try! By comming out and flash the first boulder (instead of falling from top) I would insure my place in the final. Thinking backward, selfbelief and trust that I can do this, was the bigest lack for not do it. Altrought, I was satisfied with my performance and most important of all, really enjoyed bouldering after a while!
Anyway it was special event with one of the most spectacular finals I have ever seen. Boulders were great and it was undecided who is going to get the title to last seconds!
At the end, Jule Wurm and Adam Ondra get well deserved gold and Slovenian Jernej Kruder finished 2nd after great climb! I was really really happy for him, due the all unlucky things taht he has passed trought this year. Congradulations! ;)