ponedeljek, 20. oktober 2014


After a really pleasant stay at Seoul, we arrived at Wujiang. I had already good memories of this location, where I won the master event in 2012 and WC stage in 2013. But honestly, I didn't feel  any expectations or pressure to repeat this. I really just wanted to climb and enjoy as I do in the moment.
Qualifications went quite well. I fell (again) from the top on the first route and finished the second. In the semifinal I finished 2nd, by reaching the upper part still fresh, but missed a good part of big hold. Maja Vidmar definitely showed in this route, what it means to climb well and went with the lead going into the finals.

After observation of final, I was quite worried about the route. This is not  really common to me. Usually I feel excitement and just want to climb. Well, I tried to be relaxed, because last week I had a bit similar expectations, but it turned, that I was wrong. 
Foto: Roman Krajnik
Well, this time, I wasn't wrong. From start, I had to try hard and fight on almost every move. The beginning was technical, slabby and cruxy, but (for me) it also offered a solid rest point(s) where I could  took a deep breath, recover properly and continue into next hard section(s).  

I regret that more than above 1/3 of route was still left untouched and I couldn't enjoy it. But even so, I was satisfied with my climbing and happy about the 2nd gold in a row.
The next comp is coming up next weekend in Inzai, Japan. Honestly,  all I want is to keep those good feelings in me and rnjoy climbing, no matter of what happens there. For another couple of days, we are staying in China, train, rest, relax, explore and have good time with my team and the other teams.


Between comps in Mokpo and Wujiang with our and some other teams we staid together in Seul.
Foto: Domen Škofic
This place made big impression to me and I really liked it. Big city, coverd by many people, rush and shining lights at the evening. Unique one.
I was also very happy and plesed, that we could climb at The Ja's. Thanks! ;) It was perfect and those days will stay in my memmories for a while.
Other fotos: Roman Krajnik

torek, 14. oktober 2014

Lucky Korea

The first step of our journey is now behind us. I just loved it from the moment I arrived to Korea, took a long bus from Inchon to Mokpo, settled down at International football training center and went on to the comp the next day. Everything felt so good and nostalgic, filling me with good memories from the previous year(s). 
I couldn't wait for qualifications to start. I did the first route and fell in second, going to the top. But, even though I didn't top out both routes, I was happy about  how good I felt on the wall.
Next day, in semifinal, I climbed the highest, but ran out of the time. That was a mistake,that almost never happens to me. But, it was good go for the final.

Routes this time were very interesting, quite a bit different than usual. Wall was coverd nicely with many volumens and trought the route you  had to 'work' something  all the time, swing  your feet from left to right, cross, match, help, bump one more, ... Definitely very good work by routesetters and fun stuff to climb! :)
The final route looked pretty hard, but nice. It turned out that the beginning was truly a bit tricky and harder, but the higher you were, more fluid it become. I climbed well all the way up to the top, but (again!) fell from the last hold. I touched the ground with really mixed feelings, satisfied with my climbing, but pretty angry and regretting that I couldn't finish this nice line. Well, I sat on the 'leader chair' and waited till the end of the comp... After a mistake made by JaIn Kim, I took the gold.
What is even more important to me is that I had enjoyed every single route and moment on this comp. And this is the feeling that I want to keep for the next events.

Also big congratulations go to young teammate Domen Škofic, who got his first silver medal and is already second this year!
All foto: Roman Krajnik
In next days, we will stay with other teams in Seoul and I am sure we will have a good time training, sightseeing and spending time together till our next stop in Wujiang (China).

sreda, 08. oktober 2014

3, 2, 1 ... Asia! :)

Before going to Asia, I took about two weeks (international) competition break and time to rest and preapre for next 3 lead world cup steps.

Comming home from last of 4 stages rush of championship, masters and other comps, I admit, what is not often, I felt a bit tired. Not physically, but overloaded with all the fellings, emotions and impressions collected during the last month. *
*There was Munich bouldering worldchampionship, when I missed the final for 1 attempt, falling from top in flash try. I countinued way with some training in Innsbruck, went straight to Arco rockmaster, almost won it (finishing 2nd), climbed well on most important comp of the year - lead worldchampionship in Gijon, get silver and bronze around my neck and just a werk later did the best bouldering master ever, finishing 2nd at adidas rockstars ...

Luckly, all very positive emotions, so I have nothing to complain about! :)
Foto: Roman Krajnik

After this, a few days team trip of rock climbing in Swiss and days spent outdoor were more than welcome. I was very excited about the idea and it turned out, it was just decision on the place, something what I needed at this time! **
**and also staying by our host Urs Stoekler is always great experience ;) ...
foto: Roman Krajnik
Comming home, I felt relaxed and refreshed, ready and motivated for next steps.

Invetween I did 2 stages of national championship (lead and boulder), did some team trainings at home and aboard (I think, it is no need to mention, that training at Mitterdorf is always very welcome). Well, something is hapeening all the time and I just love it! :)

Overall, for me it was month of important comps and peaks of the season, time of travelling, training and competing. But not just that, it was also enjoyabe month and month of good and value confirmations. I felt better from comp to comp and now, all I want is, to prospone this feeling into the next 3 weeks of 'Asia world cup tour' adventure. Wish me luck! ;)

ponedeljek, 22. september 2014

adidas rockstars

It is very hard to choose the words to describe this comp ... It was truly unbeatable, amazing, outstanding and unforgettable event. Just such a pleasure to be an athlete there!
I enjoyed every second, hold and  move in this comp very much. I am sure that all those feelings and sharing positive energy with other athletes and the audience was reflected in my climbing.
All fotos by: Luka Fonda
You can also check the highlits here.

Thank you adidas outdoor for all your support!!!

nedelja, 21. september 2014

Vice worldchampion in lead :)

After 3 years of no championship in lead for me, there come time for it again... I was looking forward for this event in Gijon for quite a while and were very happy, how it has turned out for me.
All through the comp I climbed well, completing both qualification routes, and fell just under the top in semifinal. Fortunately, I repeated good climbing also in final.

For me, it is a first lead medal from World Championships and after not really briliant season till now, it truly means a lot to me. What suprised me a bit is, that I thought I would need to fight on route for silver harder, as I did.  it turned out, I climbed quite easily until I fell at a point where I took the wrong foot position which made a harder crux move.
This was my first lead medal in the World Championships and after a not very brilliant season till now, it truly meant a lot to me. What surprised me a bit is that I thought I would need to fight harder on the route for silver. As it turned out, I climbed quite easily until I fell at a point where I took the wrong foot position which made a harder crux move.

It was also nice to take 3rd place in the combination overall ranking. All congratulations also to new world champions Adam Ondra and JaIn Kim, who climbed perfectly to the top and took well deserved golds!
All foto: @Roman Krajnik

sreda, 17. september 2014

Arco Rockmatser

After few days of climbing in Innsbruck I continued on my way to the legendary Rockmaster in Arco.
This comp has a special meaning among all comps and masters I have ever done. For me, remembering last year's event is something that brings me special memories and strong emotions. Receiving the La Sportiva competition award for best comp climber of the year, followed by winning the master itself next day... Truly unforgettable... So, this year, well, let's say I have been looking forward for a long time to this event.

In the comp itself, I took 2nd place in lead and 3rd place in 'duel' lead-speed event. I regretted a bit that my performance in semifinal 'on-sight' route was quite bad, as my climbing was too full of unnecessary doubts and lack of self-trust. The lower height from the previous round (unfortunately I finished 2nd due to the countback) cost me another title on this magnificent master. 
All foto by: Luka Fonda
You can also enjoy watching final climb and duel battle video -> HERE (final) and HERE (duel)

All congratulations to the winners, Magdalena Rock and Sachi Amma!