As every year, I have finished
competition year with 3 days of national competitions in lead and
It was overall very nice event, full of
happening. Beside of climbing competition for all categories, there
were many side activities, presentations and shows available for
visitors. For me, it was already maybe a little bit more relaxed comp
as I am used to, but I have really enjoyed every boulder and route.
Maybe, because I knew, they are probably last for me in this year
After this event, I will took some rest
and focus on other things. But, soon in January, I am coming back to
plastic and training again!
Just after one day after finish of
world cup circuit for this year, I had another competition. It was
military climbing competition, on which also some international
teams were invited.
I went there with Slovenia armed forces
and it was really nice, relaxed and fun trip! :) It was also really nice to spend some
time together with other team-mate climbers, meet Martina Čufar and
About the climbing, I have just enjoyed
it really much! First day we had qualifications (they were
made in kind of 'open' format with 5 routes, 16 boulders and plenty of
time to try and do it).
Routes were not really big challenge
for me at the moment, but with some boulders I had some more fun.
But, together with Klemen Bečan (personal 'hold brusher' and
'beta-giver' at that time: ) ) I managed to do also some harder
Some more walk around snowy Chamonix,
little bit of shopping at local stores, coffee/tea in the down town
and perfect climbing adventure day was over.
Next day it was time for finals. It
was really interesting to climb same route together with men. Me, Maja Vidmar
and 3 guys managed to finish final route and climbed also in
superfinal, what was super cool step of an event. (and I also managed
to come to the highest point of all :P ).
It was also really successful event for
Slovenia armed forces team, with 8 medals and 1st place
altogether between teams (1st , 2nd and 3rd
places for me, Maja Vidmar and Martina Čufar in lead and boulder and
2nd place for Klemen in lead and boulder).
Just to add, I think this trip will
stay in my memory for long time. It was well deserved award for all
year's training, competing and travelling around.
Well, penultimate lead
WC stage is behind us and I have took 2nd place.
Still, we have to be
unique, every podium and medal is really nice result! But, I admit
that I am maybe not most brilliant satisfied with it. I have started
competition well, maybe little bit stressed, but there was already
totally different situation next day. In semifinals I have focused on
route, climb fluid and precise from start to top and clip the last
quickdraw easily. As I was the only one to do the top, I went into
the finals with good attitude and confidence.
Competition as usually
and traditionally here at Valence is altogether very nice organized.
They always make up really nice and big show - light effects, crowd
cheering and all atmosphere for climbing is just almost crazy and soo
But, for me, in finals
things went quite different ... Already on observation I saw the
route little bit different. Not harder, but just like very nice and
interesting climb, looking forward to do it! But, almost for very
beginning I took some (more) wrong or harder move sequence
selection(s), get a bit stressed, but still calm down quite fast and
continued climbing further. Till next stop like this ...
More than by place that I
did at the end, I was not satisfied with climbing during the route
and doing so much mistake and wrong decisions... Well, even that I
saw that I am really good prepared, with climbing like this, it was
hard to see the top... and unfrtunately I didn't ...
Won went to JaIn Kim and 3rd place to Momoka Oda. It was also very nice to see Adam
Ondra back to comps (he took a gold) and Maja Vidmar after
injuries(s) back in finals again! Congratulations to all!
After come back from
China I have spent some really nice and precious time at home. I took
some time for rest, training, meet friends and just enjoy really nice
autumn in Slovenia.
It was also time for
national competition in Tržič. It was nice to compete on local
level after a while, meet and spent some time with local climbers. We
had, sure, also very nice routes and after 2 tops, I took a gold, 2nd
place went to Maja Vidmar and 3rd to Tina Susteršič. By boys, Urban
Primožič won infront of Domen Škofic and Sergej Epih.
Next day, I have used
rest day a bit different as usually, take a short trip and went to
visit my parents in my home town. It does not happen often, so I do
not need to say, it was really enjoyable, warm and relaxed day at
home. Short stop, but just something, what I needed at the moment.
But, because there is not
time for rest now, next day
with Slovenija climbing team we visited really good climbing gym in
Austria's Mitterndorf and did an perfect training (I am quite sure, I have
mentioned it already for few times before, but for all who maybe
missed it, you can check out more on here. And sure, I recomend you to visit and enjoy
even the hardest indoor route climbing there!:).
In few days there will be
time for 2nd latest stage of lead WC this year in Valence (France).
Cross fingers and enjoy
competition on 1st and 2nd of November (here).
After WC in Mokpo and
master in Hajyang there was time for next and last stop of our
'Asia' tour. It was 3rd competition in a week, so schedule
was quite intense, but I admit, I just really liked it! :)
Competition went well and
nice. First day I have topped out qualification routes and next days
also clipped top of semifinal route. In finals I have climbed quite
far, but fall few moves before the top. At the end I (and also
JaIn) probbably took the wrong combination of hold/move sequence and tried to
do the move, but it just does not work. So, despite of
better performance and result in semifinals, I have took the gold.
Happy for perfect end of long, successful and overall very fun week!
Just after WC in Mokpo
we have moved to next competition in China, Hajyang.
Here was holder an IFSC speed WC event, but
they have also decided to organize an additional master lead competition and
classic speed event. This place were also holder of Asia's beach games last
year, so it is no wonder, that everything is well organized and with warm
Chinese hospitality, as usually.
Lead event were done in two parts,
qualifications and finals, both rounds in on-sight format. Routes this time
were set by local 'master' Zhao Lei and were really nice and climbable. They
all contain some 'tricky' parts in the middle and top part. I have managed to
found out the right (or one of right – maybe not the easiest) solution sequences
in both routes, as well as Dinara Fahratdinova. So, due the better time, I have
won again. (This the time difference was a bit smaller, for about 20 second or
something like that)...
Congratulations, sure, also to her! 3rd
place went to young Japanese Ota Risa. By guys Hyunbin Min, Stefanio Gizolfi
and Sean McColl took places on podium.
This time, again I was in quite similar
situation as just few days ago in Mokpo.
I knew the route, I new (thought) am
able to do it and I also expected Dinara did the top. So, I had to forget all
the facts again, erase everything else form my head, focused just on route and
climb (FAST!) Sure, if possible :-)... And, I did it!
See you soon in next few days on next WC in